Roads Less Traveled

Tenakee Springs, Alaska, population 60, is a remote village only accessible by boat or seaplane. It used to be that the people here made their living in a cannery. That closed, leaving only a few fishermen left to support the town. The residents all live on a single dirt road directly on the water, so they all have a panoramic view from their homes, which are an eclectic mix ranging from trailer park specials to very nice chalets. The latter, I’d imagine, belong to the part-time residents who only summer in Alaska before flying back to the lower 48. We intend to visit Tenakee Springs to experience an authentic Alaskan village and to enjoy a nature walk with our guide, Jason.

We arrived last night and moored just offshore from the town so we’re ready to head in right after breakfast. The crew advises us to eat light because the town’s only cafe’ has great cinnamon rolls, and buying one is the price you must pay for Internet service. which I haven’t had since we left Juneau.

We take the pontoon boat into town and the first impression is that it’s uninhabited. Continue reading →

I slept well on my first night. Breakfast burritos are served at the table, though for early risers a continental breakfast is available from 6:30AM.

At 10, the naturalist gives us a run down on what to expect for the stops today. Jason is a young Midwestern guy who looks like the boy next door. He’s been on the boat for 2 seasons and has two science degrees. He is knowledgeable about Alaskan history and geography and is able to field the few questions we have about the Alaskan Coastal Brown Bears we’ll be seeing. We learn that these huge carnivores are close cousins of both Grizzlies and Kodiaks and that they can weigh over a thousand pounds. Continue reading →

The Island Spirit is tiny as cruise ships go-more like a yacht really, except it has a more “expedition” than luxury feel to her. There is a favorable ratio of 16 passengers and 11 crew on the vessel when we leave the port in Juneau. As soon as we’re clear of the dock, it’s happy hour, and they aren’t stingy with the free drinks. I like it already!

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