Roads Less Traveled

Today we start out in thick fog and cut through cold northerly winds toward Baird Glacier. Continue reading →

This morning I’m kayaking through a fjord in perfectly calm water near Red Bluff Island, so named for the iron deposits, which are unusual for the area. The fog burns off almost immediately and I’m rewarded with views of steep forested bluffs rising out of the sea. I pass within a few feet of the mouth of a waterfall that starts high on the mountain overhead. Later, I spy a brace of bald eagles as I cruise through the narrow passage, which is filled with huge jellyfish and “Sunstar fishes” the size of serving plates. A Harbor Seal, curious about my craft, pokes its head above the water before darting away. That’s a lot of wildlife for one morning, but the best is yet to come. Continue reading →

Tenakee Springs, Alaska, population 60, is a remote village only accessible by boat or seaplane. It used to be that the people here made their living in a cannery. That closed, leaving only a few fishermen left to support the town. The residents all live on a single dirt road directly on the water, so they all have a panoramic view from their homes, which are an eclectic mix ranging from trailer park specials to very nice chalets. The latter, I’d imagine, belong to the part-time residents who only summer in Alaska before flying back to the lower 48. We intend to visit Tenakee Springs to experience an authentic Alaskan village and to enjoy a nature walk with our guide, Jason.

We arrived last night and moored just offshore from the town so we’re ready to head in right after breakfast. The crew advises us to eat light because the town’s only cafe’ has great cinnamon rolls, and buying one is the price you must pay for Internet service. which I haven’t had since we left Juneau.

We take the pontoon boat into town and the first impression is that it’s uninhabited. Continue reading →